The most common beginner mistake made by new oil painters is to think they can start at one side of the painting and simply work across and finish at the other.
There are some materials where there is little choice but to do that — such as an artist doing a proper fresco and having to work into fresh plaster every day. You only have so much time. Michelangelo did his Sistine Chapel in small squares, adding a bit more each day as if they were all pieces of a puzzle.
But for most of us, oil painting is a process of building layers until you achieve what you set out to do. The risk is always of overworking a canvas, but for most, the danger of underworking is usually much greater.
I decided to document the various sessions I had with this new painting, each session representing two to three hours. Many artists use different and valid processes, but this is the one I commonly use.
The painting is from an image I took in Newport, Rhode Island, while attending one of the jazz festivals there. I liked the long light and the story it told of the person walking uphill towards, presumably, a job. There was a hotel at the top of the hill, and I suspect he was headed there. I liked the fact that the houses were all irregular shapes, no doubt partly from settling over time. It’s far from crisp vertical and horizontal lines.

Working on a white canvas is very difficult, given it is hard to assess your colours as you initially put them down. As such, many artists put down a flat ground first. In this case, I simply painted the canvas gray. After that, I use the grid method to transpose my image on to the canvas, in this case going a little further in delineating some of the darker areas.
For those who are not familiar with the grid method, it involves drawing a grid on the canvas in an equal number of squares to your original image. I use a gridding software, so I don’t have to physically made the lines on the original photograph or drawing, although prior to the software, that is literally what I used to do.
Once the original has been gridded, it makes it much simpler to figure out where all the key lines in the piece fit, matching the squares one by one. The grid helps you avoid making major corrections only to discover a key part of your composition is now off the canvas altogether. You don’t want to fix the proportions on a body to discover that the head is now off the top of the canvas. Likely there will still be some drawing corrections but they will be relatively small by this point. At every stage of the process I am making drawing corrections.

The next step I call the rough-in, where you take the general colour pallette and do a quick once around to give a sense of the painting. I apply rough colour knowing I’m likely going to fine tune those colours as I god, now having some reference points to work from. Often the colour on your pallette will look different than it is on the canvas. I have no qualms about doing some find mixing right on the picture. Having a general sense of the painting, it makes it much easier to figure out the right colours.

The next level you start refining the details. You’ll notice I’ve added some lines on the left side of the first house to indicate the siding. I’ll rough up those lines in the next pass. I seldom use a ruler when I paint, but in this case I think it was a necessary evil in this one part of the picture. I’ve also gone into more detail on the trees and shrub and started darkening the figure in the painting to indicate he has entered the shade. When I worked into the shrub I inadvertently given the figure a man bun, which I eliminated in the next pass. I’ve started working up the details on the windows. At this point I’ve done nothing with the curb other than to show where it runs. I’ve also done the first pass of the leaves on top of the roof of the second house.

Here I have gone into the curb to provide some detail, as well as the way the road repairs have picked up the light. I’ve emphasized the right arm of the figure by indicating some light silhouetting that arm. There is much more detail in this pass, including how the sun casts shadows on the first building. At this point I’m looking to finish with smaller tweaks to bring it to life, including doing some more drawing corrections, such as the lining up the three windows on the first floor of the first house and providing more detail on the cobblestone on the sidewalk in the middle ground.

Above: the “finished” piece, although I am not reluctant to go in at a later date and rework any aspect of the painting that I see needs addressing over time. Writing this, I have just noticed one minor tweak. I’ll repost in the gallery section once I’ve made it. Come back tomorrow and see if you can figure out what it was. This is also one of the reasons I don’t like to varnish my work anymore. You can rework a varnished painting, but it usually involves first taking off the varnish. The idea of reworking “finished” paintings is more common than you likely think. The French painter Edouard Vuillard is the one master everyone likes to point to for reworking stories. He was said to have snuck into the homes of those who had purchased his paintings to make small changes, carrying with him a brush and whatever colours he needed in his pockets. There is a story that he also did the same in museums that held his work, often involving an accomplice to distract the guards. That may be more story than truth.
Once someone buys one of my paintings, for me it is always done.
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